Thursday, 7 December 2006

Istanbul (not Constantinople - or Byzantium) and Beyond

Hello everyone, well we finally posted on Turkey! Yay for us! But for those of you that were wondering what the rest of Turkey held for us, let us give you a quick idea.

We first arrived in Istanbul, which for us was very different to anywhere we had been in Western Europe, but for Tori who has spent a month in Egypt, Jordan and Syria, it was like being back in Europe! You get asked by shop owners to come in and have a look inside their shop and in some of the more touristy areas they were even more cheeky, and have asked "How can I help you spend your money today?" But we really only found this in Istanbul, they were generally much less pushy and persistent in the rest of Turkey.

On our first afternoon when we were wondering around outside the Blue Mosque, we were offered tea, apple tea and nescafe (western coffee) by a guy wondering a round with a tray. We declined, however, because we're stingy Australians. Shortly afterwards we were sitting down (just after declining to have our shoes polished - partly because we're stingy Australians, but more because we were wearing sandals) and we saw a guy scrabbling round in the bushes, he emerged with some cups of tea on a tray, the same guy who had offered us drinks earlier! Well, I suppose who needs a cafe when you can make perfectly good money with some tea bags and a hot water boiler in the bushes; He certainly seemed to be doing good business!!

Apart from watching tea makers in Istanbul we also visited the Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque, Aya Sophia, both of which have just been visited by the pope, the Basillica cistern (where they used to store water under the city), we went on a boat ride on the Bosphorous (the bit of water that seperates Europe from Asia), we saw plenty of museums, Millions of carpet dealers and crazy but courteous taxi drivers that flash all traffic to let them know that they are crazy and need plenty of room (no need to mention us getting ripped off).

Topkapi Palace

Inside the Blue Mosque

The Basilica Cistern

We then met up with Tori in Istanbul and headed down the Aegean Coast of Turkey. We visited Troy and Gallipoli, with a fantastic guide for the Gallipoli sites and then down to Selcuk via Bergama, the ancient city of Pergamum. At Selcuk we visited the ancient city of Ephesus, and saw what remained of the Temple of Artemis (our first ancient wonder of the world, of which we were to see two more) and did a daytrip to the ancient cities of Priene, Miletus and Didyma.

The walls of Troy

Anzac Cove
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Some trenches at Gallipoli
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Lone Pine - The Australian War Memorial at Gallipoli

The theatre at Pergamum
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The library at Pergamum
_The sun hiding behind some clouds manages to look quite spectacular!

The library at Ephesus

Ephesus
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What remains of the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus

At the ancient city of Priene

We then went inland to visit the travertine pools (calcium formations) at Pamukkale, where the ancient city of Hierapolis also is, and took a trip out to the ancient city of Aphrodisias. Then onto the resort town of Bodrum where we visited the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus (another one of the seven ancient wonders of the world) and relaxed for a few days on the beach - exactly what we needed!

Swiming in a man-made pool at Pamukkale, you're not allowed to swim in the natural ones anymore...
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Sunset over the travertine pools

The theatre at Hierapolis

The Tetrapylon at Aphrodisias
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The stadium at Aphrodisias

View of Bodrum

Not a bad place to do a bit of relaxing on the beach...

Sunset on the beach at Bodrum
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We then headed to Fethiye to begin our cruise (see our previous post for all the details on that!) When we were finally finished our cruise we relaxed (which is what we needed after THAT cruise!) in Olympos for a few days, from which we visited the flames at Chimera, the ancient city of Olympus and Myra. Then back to Fethiye to visit Saklikent Gorge and the Blue Lagoon (which we missed on our cruise – and wasn’t really all that blue, more green and slimy).
_Getting our toes wet exploring at Olympos
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Olympos

Rock tombs at Myra

The flames at Chimera. They is a gas leaking from inside the rock that naturally combusts in the air!!
_Jo and Jeremy wading through Saklikent Gorge
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Please keep to the right of the ancient sarcophagus!
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Then across to Rhodes on the ferry, and now we’re in Greece! In Rhodes we admired some massive storms, enjoyed wondering around the old town and admired the site where the Colossus of Rhodes supposedly stood (our final ancient wonder of the world - for this trip anyway.) We caught the boat to Crete where we visited the Palace of Knossos, which was quite a let down after all the other fantastic sites we had seen. The headed on to Athens on an overnight boat that was more comfortable than some of our beds had been! From Athens we went straight to Meteora, where rock pinnacles rise from the ground (or at least did many, many years ago) and there are monasteries from the 14th C onwards built on the top, how on earth they got up there beats me! We then head on to the ancient city of Delphi where in ancient times people used to come to visit the oracle, and then back on to Athens to visit the Parthenon. And finally it was time to go home!
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A quite alleyway in Rhodes

Where the Colossus of Rhodes is meant to have stood

Pinnacles at Meteora

Pinnacles at Meteora

A hermitage on the side of a pinnacle in Meteora

The ancient city of Delphi

There were alwayh heaps of dogs just lying around, completely unfazed about all the people rushing around them!

A narrow escape for Jeremy in Athens

The Parthenon

Phew! so all together we managed to visit the following ancient sites:

  • Troy
  • Pergamon
  • Ephesus
  • Temple of Artemis (Ancient wonder)
  • Priene
  • Miletius
  • Dydima
  • Hierapolis
  • Aphrodisias
  • The Mausoleum of Halikarnassos (Ancient Wonder)
  • The ruins at Simena
  • The Sunken City at Kekova
  • Myra
  • Olympos
  • The Chimera of Olympos
  • Lycian Tombs in Fethiye
  • Fortified city of Rhodes
  • Collossus of Rhodes (Ancient Wonder)
  • The Palace of Knossos
  • Delphi
  • The Parthenon

And finally some handy hints from Jeremy:

Jeremy’s guide to touts!

  • Whenever there is the possibility of money being exchanged between two parties a tout is born.
  • They exist solely to bridge the gap between payer and payee.
  • You never need to find a tout… a tout always finds you.
  • A tout is always your best friend no matter what you are doing at the time or how many times you tell them to $&%@ off!
  • Touts are a great source of free transport, especially if you have yet to decide where you are going to sleep, eat, or tend to bodily functions!
  • Regale your friendly touts with tales of your past successes… a gob-smacked tout is a wary tout! And believe me you can gob-smack a tout!
  • Touts are born without morals… feel free to use this to your advantage. Play one tout against another and if they aren’t anywhere near each other feel free to bend the truth about what the other tout has offered you. You know you’re getting close to home when the tout stops trying to offer you something better and just starts badmouthing what the other guy has offered!
  • Never trust a tout as far as you can throw one.
  • Touts often believe they are a primary source of public information. Such as which roads and train lines are closed today, extremely recent price increases to public transport and where you can find certain essential goods e.g. carpets. If a tout has given you any news that has managed to throw a spanner into your plans, never fear, your new friend will always know the best way to solve your problems and get you back on track! He’ll even lighten that extra weight in your wallet for you. Amazing!
  • Beware of evil touts.
  • Touts have magical pockets, somewhat akin to the Mary Poppins suitcase. They are an endless source of tickets to anything you may need in your present city as well as the surrounding cities, and sometimes even surrounding countries.
  • The best thing about touts is that they are all related! So don’t be surprised when they tell you they have a brother or a cousin that can give you a very special price.
  • Finally, always remember that no matter what price a tout gives you, a true and cheaper price does exist! It’s the current price minus his and three other touts commission!

Top 6 Great Things about Turkish Buses!

1. They are quite luxurious and custom made to accommodate for the tourist industry (no chickens!)

2. Due to the existence of dozens of different companies and then the hundreds of touts that literally spawn at the thought of people selling tickets, you can always haggle for your fare!

3. Buses will actually come to a complete stop for tourists getting off the bus. If you are a local be prepared to exit a moving vehicle!

4. Turkish buses actually have better service than an aeroplane! Often they have one if not two “flight” attendants who provide you with free water, tea, coffee and soft drink, not to mention free cake. If you get a really fancy bus you may even get more than one choice of cake!

5. You get free hand and face cologne to freshen you up during a long journey. Ahh smells like 100% artificial, industrial strength lemon additive!

6. Finally, All Turkish buses have neck braces on standby, just like the one they use on *insert generic medical drama here*, ready for that inevitable case of whiplash!

Friday, 1 December 2006

Captain's Log: Stardate 1031.06

We have been recalled from charting a J-class nebula in sector 2412. In a subspace transmission from Starfleet command we were ordered to report to Perpetual Station… *shhhh……kschhskkkkshhh (interference)* Correction, we have just arrived at the harbour to pick up the latest group of passengers for their 4 day cruise around Turkey’s Southern Mediterranean coastline, starting from Fethiye and ending in Olympos. I ‘Mehmet’ the captain have done this trip many times but it is the first time for our new guests so we plan to make it a wonderful experience for them, a time they’ll never forget… hmm better leave that last bit out sounds rather ominous and this boat is seriously on its last trip before needing major servicing, I just hope it makes it! Better not write anymore in case the lawyers get hold of this journal then I’ll really be in it!

Well I should help our new guests load their luggage and introduce them to the crew. ‘Snu’ my Second in Command, a funny fellow who tends to remind people of a monkey for some reason but never-the-less is an excellent galley chef you might even say he’s a real “Kitchen Monkey”!!!! Ha Ha Ha…(wipes tear from eye) I kill me!! Oh and of course there is that other member of our crew… I can never remember his name… Snu’s friend… oh yeah that’s it ‘Curley-haired guy’. Well in Closing I will offer prayer for a safe and pleasant voyage, “I call on the powers of the almighty to keep this boat … afloat”. There that should do.

Captain’s Log: Stardate 1031.06

We have finally moored for the night, well technically it is very early morning, but the important thing is we made it and in one piece…kind of. The day started well by getting our guests settled into their cabins (mental note: pray it doesn’t rain because the cabin in the front of the boat leaks and that young Australian couple will get wet). We set off for our first destination on the itinerary ‘Butterfly Valley’. Boat runs well for approximately 29 minutes. Curley-haired guy then notices smoke issuing forth from below decks and subsequently is sent downstairs to investigate. The report of the situation from Curley-haired guy was that one of the belts on the engine has broken and needed to be replaced… curse this boat… as a result we could not go any further until the belt was replaced which happened to take 3 hours before someone could find a selection of new belts and bring them out to us. During this time I was unable to drop the anchor and secure our position for some reason and as a result the boat kept getting dangerously close to the rocky heads of Fethiye harbour, thankfully Snu was able to arrange for a passing tourist cruise ship to give us a tow away from our rocky peril (See Exhibit A, the lawyers are going to have a field day with this).

The afternoon proved to be less eventful and we arranged for our guests to get off at Butterfly Valley and have a walk around, however the fact that we couldn’t use our anchor meant that we couldn’t moor in the normal location and instead had to push on to Kas harbour where the boat could receive some serious first aid. Unfortunately for our guests this meant that we had to drive by all the beautiful and scenic locations mentioned in the itinerary in the dark. The need to moor in a harbour was understood by the guests, but they don’t seem particularly impressed by the boats performance, I wonder if we can compensate them in any way…

Our arrival in Kas harbour can only be described as spectacular. At approximately 1am the boat pulled into the small harbour at low speed and was preparing to pull alongside another boat from our company. Steering and speed controls were unresponsive… yes that’s right the bloody things just stopped working!! Despite our best efforts at running up and down the deck looking frantic and playing with the controls and steering wheel (which at this time had also fallen off) and desperately trying to drop anchor, which also wasn’t working, we were still unsuccessful at preventing the inevitable. At 1:05am with most of our guests still on deck the ‘Alaturka’ made a slow but steady beeline straight for the concrete wharf. Some smaller boats were thrown from our path and just as we were about to crash one of the New Zealand guests cried out “Breece yoursulves”. THUDD! Thankfully no one fell over from the impact and the few sleeping guests downstairs weren’t disturbed, but do not let that fact convince you that this moment was anything other than profound and life-changing for those on board! Thankfully about a dozen random people from the crowd that had gathered on the wharf were able to assist us in getting the boat appropriately moored and our anchor dropped. Somebody up there hates me but thankfully we don’t have any whinging Yanks or Pommies on board!

Captain's Log: Stardate 1031.07

Our Second day has done an amazing job of being just as bad as the first… well not quite as bad as crashing into a harbour, but not being able to leave the harbour is equally as bad in the minds of our guests. In fact it is probably worse due to the distinct lack of adrenalin involved in waiting for a boat to be repaired, compared to a moderately paced boat crash a la ‘Speed 2’ divided by a thousand. After having the accelerator cable replaced and the anchor winch motor replaced (which ended up being the actual source of smoke yesterday, I blame Curley-haired guy) and disentangling our anchor from the boat we moored next to, I blame Curley-haired guy again, we set out of Kas harbour at 4:37pm. Funnily enough one of the Australians girls, Tori, looked quite pleased with herself and that Australian guy, Jeremy I think his name is, looked rather upset! Hmm I think I know who just lost the sweepstakes on when the boat was leaving. Well I’m glad they’ve been able to keep themselves occupied all day while the boat was being repaired. I wonder if they remembered to fix the steering wheel… I’ll blame Curley-haired guy!

Captain's Log: Stardate 1031.08

Not much to report… guests appear in good spirits due to plenty of swimming, sun bathing and snorkelling. They even got to hop off at an isolated little village that is only accessible by boat and visit an ancient fort and some even more ancient Lycian sarcophagi, and guess what the boat didn’t break down once! And the food so far according to the guests has been superb! Snu truly is an excellent kitchen monkey! Maybe something more exciting will happen tomorrow. Wait what is that sound? It sounds like a sirens call, siren in the mythological sense not the authority sense. No wait I can now hear a motor… it’s the motor of our little dinghy, oh and it has two drunk Australian girls on it, it sounds like Joanna and Karin… yep that’s definitely Joanna though I’m surprised I could hear her before the boat motor… strange.






Captain's Log: Stardate 1031.09

Well this was meant to be the last day of the cruise but due to the guests basically not getting what they paid for, the company has been generous enough to let them all stay an extra night and day! Isn’t that nice? We are going to take them out to a special little place tonight for their last night, something real special. Unfortunately not everyone is staying, we have said goodbye to two of our guests and Curley-haired guy has also left us… not sure whether that is a good thing or a bad thing yet.

Hmm things don’t appear to be going as planned why does that not bloody surprise me? Well we had to scrap that special evening in light of a major storm that is brewing over towards the Greek islands. Our guests are looking less than amused by the change in the weather though they did seem to enjoy the 3 metre swell that tossed us around a bit. Lots of screaming. Screaming is good right? Well we are safe in this little bay with lots of other tourist cruise ships just like us… Curley haired guy’s departure has done nothing to turn our luck around though. The good news was I remembered to move Jeremy and Joanna from the front room into the recently vacated room that doesn’t leak just before the rain got here. The bad news is that not only does the front room leak but pretty much all the rooms leak except for the one that Jeremy and Joanna are in now and maybe one other! The other 14 guests do not appear amused. BANG!! Oh great now what was that noise? I’ll be back…

… can you believe it? Somehow this boats anchor managed to come loose in the weather and we actually crashed into another boat!! That’s right we have now crashed twice in 4 days!!! Oh why am I cursed! I have just spent the last 4 hours desperately trying to manoeuvre the boat and position it in pouring rain and some spectacular lightning displays… well Snu did most of the work, but I was running around in a panic regardless. We have finally moored with a series of boats in some sort of a rafted-flotilla… if that even makes sense. Now to relax… after I cook everybody dinner… sigh.

Captain's Log: Stardate 1031.10

Ahh… that’s it! Cruise is over! Time to get these people off this god forsaken boat and the hell out of here before something really bad happens to them! The guests have been really great and not really complaining at all and they are all so friendly! And helpful… they helped to pull up the anchor when the winch was broken, and just this morning Marco dove into the water to disentangle our anchor, yes that’s right, it got tangled again. Anyway it has been a great cruise despite the drama and I hope they all feel the same! Now to burn this book before it falls into the wrong hands!



Friday, 10 November 2006

Photos from Norway

Trondheim

Got to watch out for those Trolls in Norway

A veiw back of the valley from Trollstigen (as Ian so appropriately described it "a stretch of road steeper than Norwegian beer prices")

The three happy travellers at Geirangerfjorden

Mountain Lake near

Borgund Stave Kirk

Bryggen in Bergen, has developed a bit of a lean over the years

Sunday, 5 November 2006

Celebrating an English Tradition in True Aussie Style!!

With LOTS and LOTS of fireworks!!!
Here are some photos (and click here to see a sideways video) of the BBQ we had at our flat for Guy Fawkes.

Jeremy with the fireworks

Our awesome new flatmates!!